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Forum
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RE: No power unless plugged in for tent trailer
I'm a little confused but will try to help. First, the plugs will only work when you're plugged into external power. I would think the converter "on" switch is used when you're using external power. The lights should work on 12 volts. Are you sure there's not a battery ON/OFF switch somewhere? Usually, the lift is wired directly from the battery so it would work as long as the battery is hooked up. There are sometimes one or two 30 amp fuses at the converter (behind it? on the fuse block?). They are mains and could possibly be blown. Good luck, hope this gives you a couple of ideas. VK
PS: Anyone in the area who could help you? Most folks are very willing, even the local RV store.
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vikx
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06/29/08 11:57pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic RM360 cools only on elec, but not propane.
User manual may give more information. Even tho you have one t'stat, it controls two different heat sources. The gas side may be bad. The old t'stats had little tubes going into the cool box. Sometimes they corrode and break. I agree with the above: nice blue flame, I'm thinking about 1/2" or less. Sounds like you've done all the right things. Let us know how it goes. VK
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vikx
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06/29/08 12:00am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Fresh Water Tank Leak
I've had pretty good luck with Plumbers Goop; handy in tight spaces. VK
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vikx
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06/26/08 11:29pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Motorhome AC wiring question
Not sure of code, but if it is an "rv" junction box with push in connections, get rid of it. The outlets in RV's tend to melt from loose push in wires; this could be the same type. An accident waiting to happen...
Mount a proper j box on the cabinet wall and connect the wires according to NEC code. (wires twisted with wing nuts)If I were doing it, I would also arrange the romex neatly and clamp it in place. I don't blame you for asking! VK
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vikx
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06/26/08 11:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Dometic RM360 cools only on elec, but not propane.
Check your thermostats. There should be either a dual (electric and gas) or two singles to control cooling. If the gas t'stat isn't working or set properly, the fridge would work on elec but not as well on gas. On an old fridge, you can spend lots on parts, get it working and the cooling unit will die, so try to find used parts. VK
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vikx
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06/26/08 10:46pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Hot Water Smells
Bleach also helps with the smell. After flushing, you might try soaking the tank for a few hours. VK
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vikx
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06/23/08 12:05am |
Tech Issues
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RE: FAN-tastic!
Fantastic service! I haven't dealt with a better company. VK
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vikx
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06/20/08 12:13am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Electric brakes Emergency flasher and break away Question
Pulse Preventer
It's called a pulse preventer and this one seems to be made for more modern vehicles...VK
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vikx
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06/20/08 12:09am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Electric brakes Emergency flasher and break away Question
Well, I don't know your tow vehicle, but in my older Chevys, they would "pulse" the brakes when the flashers were on. I bought a device to remedy this-it installed on the firewall with plenty of airflow, there were fins to cool it. Sorry, but can't remember what it was called. Perhaps one of the 70s Chevy forums would know about it. I'll do more research.
I would think someone standing by the wheels could hear the brakes go on when you pull your breakaway pin. They should at least clunk or make a sound when they are energized. Am not sure they would hum tho-VK
PS: I'll post again if I can find the brake device.
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vikx
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06/19/08 11:40pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Painting Aluminum Roof; Is it worth it?
I'm not a fan of the white roof coatings because they tend to peel and can actually cause roof rot if water creeps underneath. Snow Roof and Kool Seal are coatings that would work for reflection. I would leave an area around each vent totally free of the coating so that you can repair/replace if needed. My hobby is repairing vintage travel trailers and I have spent hours picking and scraping these thick coatings off the roofs...there is a product called "Mobile Coat" which is not so thick; it's for mobile home roofs.
I would do a little research at a paint shop to see what they think about painting the roof and what to use. I'm thinking your new A/C may solve your problem. Also, if it's possible, installing better insulation would make a big difference. Unfortunately, this would involve pulling the ceiling panels. VK
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vikx
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06/18/08 11:39pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Upper Shower Wall Bowing Away from Lower Portion
I have repaired mine but it involved taking the shower stall apart. After that was done, I adjusted the "bow" and used screws with buttons and sealer to tighten it to the wall. You may be able to just flatten the upper portion and re-install the shower frame to hold it in place. I also used shower/tub glue and silicone caulked the top. (be sure the glue is compatible with your shower panels)Hope this gives you a couple of ideas. VK
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vikx
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06/18/08 12:49am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Wiring Stereo
Usually, the ground wire is white. BUT: you must check with a tester to find out. Never trust color of a wire to determine what it does. If you're putting a whole separate stereo system in the luggage compartment, it should work as long as it does not draw too many amps. The wiring to the light is probably 15 amps with more than one light on that circuit, so keep the stereo small and simple. Good luck. VK
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vikx
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06/14/08 11:36pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: 2.4 CU Feet Refrigerator Replacement w/freezer
Another thing to consider is whether the new fridge will fit thru the doors. With a side door or two back doors this isn't a concern but with a single back door, measure carefully. I like Homeskillet's idea of the portable. VK
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vikx
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05/29/08 12:28am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Ever installed propane????
Your connections themselves do not need to be vented. They are flare fittings and tightened properly, won't leak. The stove top should have some sort of vent or overhead fan to allow cooking fumes/steam to escape. It also will allow air to enter your rig and prevent dangerous gas build up.
The fridge needs at least two outside vents, one low and one high (or on the roof). Most of the time, the fridge cabinet is fairly "tight" and sometimes insulated. The fridge uses air for combustion from the bottom vent and exhausts thru the upper vent. Have fun on your build! Wish I could see it. VK
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vikx
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05/29/08 12:15am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Ever installed propane????
K-mann, it depends on where your appliances are located. You can tee a copper line inside the rig if the fridge and stovetop are next to each other. It they're across the coach, of course underneath would be better. For external splits, it's better to use the black iron pipe, tee it, and then go to copper before you plumb up into the appliance cabinet. VK
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vikx
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05/27/08 11:57pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Ever installed propane????
K-mann, one of the interesting things to do while building your van is check out factory made ones. Even the old vans can give you ideas. Have fun. VK
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vikx
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05/24/08 11:34pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Ever installed propane????
I doubt the tank can be rotated, the valve wouldn't work properly. When you say "access the fittings" do you mean fill the tank? Keep in mind that many propane sellers will not crawl under/make extra effort to fill an awkwardly placed tank. So you want to make it as accessible as possible for filling. VK
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vikx
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05/23/08 10:58pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: I need help - looking at 4 new Bs Thursday!
I too, have been looking at "B"s for a while. Having had two previous rigs with the Dodge 318, I want a bigger motor for towing. They were seriously compromised going up hills towing a small trailer. The mileage will be better with a 318 just driving but towing is another story. I agree with the above on handling problems; make sure you have the power to top a hill going a resonable speed as well.
Generators are expensive; nice to have one. I like the more enclosed bathroom rather than the stand in the middle kind. Have fun on your search! VK
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vikx
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05/21/08 12:03am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Ever installed propane????
In Washington State, rubber lines are illegal to the appliances inside. You can use them from the regulator (on the tongue of a pull trailer) to the black iron and from the tank(s)to the regulator. I'm not sure if this is the same on all RVs or not. Many motorhomes have rubber connections at the tank which then go to black iron underneath or copper into the rig.
Copper tubing is available at most home and hardware stores as are the fittings. You'll need to flare the tubing for connections. A cut off valve at each appliance is not required, tho is safer for a Cat heater. Some cooktops have the valves.
Copper is usually not mounted tightly to the walls but is clamped (with protection) at entry areas and then run to the appliance in somewhat of a loose manner. In other words, it has space around it and able to "move" with the rig.
I would do more research on legality. An RV shop should be able to tell you what can and can not be done. Get more than one opinion. Your conduit idea and rubber hose sounds OK to me, but again, more information will help make your decisions. VK
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vikx
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05/20/08 11:51pm |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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RE: Ever installed propane????
Most newer rigs use black iron 1/2" pipe underneath and tee off with 3/8" brass flare fittings and copper up to each appliance. Your water heater is low pressure, stove as well. Most camping grills (BBQ grills) are high pressure, tho some will run on regulated low pressure.
Rubber hoses underneath are not legal in most states. They are too vulnerable to damage from road debris. Also, they are not used to go into the coach to appliances.
I agree with the above. Be careful, have your work inspected and pay for what you are not totally sure you can do safely. It's not worth the risk. VK
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vikx
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05/17/08 12:38am |
Class B - Camping Van Conversions
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